february planting in scv
Time to go to the nurseries and home supply stores to snap up the last of the bare-root trees, bushes and vines. This is the most economical way to buy them and after a short soak in water (while you dig their new homes), these plants take well to winter planting as they sleep through the whole experience and awaken in spring in their new locations. Lilac, wisteria, fruit, nut and ornamental trees, grapes, berries of all sorts, rhubarb, asparagus and strawberries are just some items that should be in good supply. Read the directions on labeling when planting. Some experts advise amending your soil, others say “no” since this is the soil where the plants will live and they need to adjust. My opinion is that organic amendments are essential here. The soil in Santa Clarita comes in layers of sand, clay and stone. For the most part, drainage is better than most of the basin and valley areas in Southern California. But there is scant organic material available. (Witness the undeveloped areas and the lack of lush vegetation.) Don’t limit the organic material (compost is my first choice) to the immediate root area. Make as large a hole as you can (at least 2 to 3 times the size of the root ball) and mix the compost with the indigenous soil so the roots have room to spread. Otherwise you are likely to form something akin to a small prison for the roots in which the surrounding hard soil functions like a clay pot, stunting growth to the small area of conditioned soil. I realize this means a lot of digging in soil that is anything but easy, but careful preparation will pay off well into the future.
Pruning can continue for dormant trees, shrubs and vines. Don’t be afraid to cut back Trumpet vines, potato vines, butterfly bushes and jasmines severely. They will grow with all the more vigor. What you don’t want to do is give them regular little “haircuts”. You will be trimming off all the bud producing tips and flowering will be very disappointing. You will probably have to prune back bougainvilleas unless yours escaped damage from earlier frosts. Cut back grasses and perennials now. It’s time for a second or third oil spray for fruit trees — or first if you haven’t done one yet! (Try to pick a day without wind, and keep spray away from ornamental ponds as it is toxic to fish.) Most bulb planting should be done by now and some of the autumn planted bulbs may already be peeking forth. There are still some bulbs you can pop into the ground, though, such as lilies, dahlias, ),
spider flowers, dormant iris, begonias (start the tubers indoors crocosmia (also known as montbretia), alliums, etc. It’s a little late for daffodils, most tulips (unless they were pre-chilled), hyacinth and crocus. Check sprinkler systems for any leaks or breaks. This is a good time for repairs or additions. In fact, if you want to do some hardscaping, this may be the last time you can grab a contractor who isn’t already booked. Once the spring comes, such people tend to be very busy. Small jobs are attractive to them only when the big jobs are taking a winter snooze. Be prepared for weather delays, however, as most building cannot take place when the ground is wet. And don’t forget to put any new ideas on paper now, before spring growth begins. Consulting on your site with a professional for design and planting advice may save you a lot in the future by avoiding mistakes which could endanger not only your aesthetics and finances, but even the welfare of your house or health!
Spend rainy, windy or cold days checking out plant and seed catalogs on the Internet or by mail. When you plan your orders, consider that some of the seeds will be better planted next autumn rather than in the spring. Our weather patterns allow us two planting seasons, unlike most of the rest of the country.
